French Farmhouse Holidays is situated in St Privat du Dragon, a tiny village of about 40 inhabitants, at the head of a picturesque valley in the Haute-Loire département in France. The general region is called the Auvergne; a large, mountainous area of central France. St Privat is about halfway between two large cities, Clermont-Ferrand and Le Puy en Velay, and the nearest towns are Brioude and Langeac (both at 15 kms). The Mediterranean is 2.5 hours by car (Montpellier), and Paris is 4.5 hours by train.

Surrounding Area

In the south of the Auvergne region is a strange city nestled in a valley with steep hills on all sides. This is Le Puy en Velay, one of the stops or gathering points on the route of the pilgrimage to Santiago di Compostella. There are three monuments in the city situated on top of volcanic plugs - the hard rock that rose up in a volcano, and was left behind when the cone eroded away. There is a giant white Joseph and Jesus, and a huge, red Mary made of melted down cannons from the Crimean War. The victory was celebrated but the artist who designed the statue met a tragic end, leaping to his death from the top of the statue when he realized his mistake of putting the baby Jesus in Mary's right arm instead his conventional place on her left. Most remarkable is the St Michel Chapel from the 10th Century, precarious as it is atop its 350 steps. Today it stands serenely as an expression of a faith as solid as the rock of its plinth.

Another spectacular religious edifice can be found not too far away in La Chaise Dieu. The 14th-century cathedral is imposing at the top of its mountain, surrounded by acres of forest. Even by today's standards it is remote, but imagining its beginnings and the vision of its founder is truly awe-inspiring. Each year at the end of August, there is a remarkable music festival in the cathedral, featuring some of the most well-known names in classical music.

More closely tied to this world is the chateau of General La Fayette. Just at the base of the mountain of La Chaise Dieu, this charming little castle was the birthplace of one of the most important players in both the American and French Revolutions. A campy but fun sound and light tour guides you through the chateau and illustrates this man's historical importance. Numerous other sites of interest dot the landscape, little detours always turn up new surprises.

Perhaps the most welcome surprise is the warmth and hospitality of the people of the Auvergne. A straightforward and somewhat gruff people, Auvergnats are quick to share their opinions and engage you in conversation. Conversation usually leads to a drink, which often leads to a meal, and soon you are enjoying a copious communal dish of the local comfort food, truffade (made with potatoes, fresh cheese and garlic), and a convivial bottle of vin de pays. In general farmers are interested and astonished by the outside world; many of them have never left the region, and consider a trip to a town 15 kms away to be a major outing. There is a satisfaction in the way of life, an enjoyment of the simple pleasures of food, drink and company, neatly summed up in the most French of all French phrases, joie de vivre.

There are also plenty of outdoor activities that are possible in the area: canoeing, kayaking, horseback-riding, cycling, swimming and hiking. Many of these activities can be done within 10 kms of our house. If you would like more information on any of these possibilities, just let us know and we'll point you in the right direction.

Map

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“Thanks for the warmth, sincerity, tours, laughter and acceptance this summer.”